“We Evolve, But We Always Keep An Eye On Our Traditions”
The iconic jewellery brand Buccellati, known for the quality and craftsmanship of its jewellery, has just arrived in Portugal and is exclusively at Boutique dos Relógios Plus Art on Avenida da Liberdade, in Lisbon. On brand’s launch in Portugal, we spoke with Luca Buccellati, the third generation of the family that created Buccellati more than a century ago.
How would you describe Buccellati’s style?
We like to define our style as timeless, as it trespasses fashion trends and time, but always remaining up to date and contemporary.
What makes your jewellery unique?
Our jewellery is unique because it is handmade, so, as to the collections, every object which is crafted in our workshops is different from the others because the hand of man never makes things exactly like one another in details. Then we have the high jewellery creations which are one-of-a-kind in the true sense of the word: it means they are unique and will never be replicated.
Can you tell us and explain some of the techniques that you use?
The most important technique we use is engraving, and it is the one that characterizes all our jewels. You will never find a Buccellati jewel which is not engraved. We also have some other distinctive techniques, like the honeycomb, where the artisan saws the gold plate until he obtains some very tiny pentagonal or hexagonal cells.
How would you describe the Buccellati woman?
The Buccellati woman is very discrete and elegant, and she knows what she wants. She can make her choices by her own and buy herself a Buccellati jewel.
Is it important for the brand to have the products be made in Milan?
The thing that is important for us is to have the jewels to be made in Italy: we are an Italian excellence, and we are ambassadors of the Italian savoir-faire, therefore it is important for us to maintain our production in Italy.
What are your bestsellers?
There are several bestsellers, among which I would name the Hawaii necklaces and earrings, dating back to a creative idea of Mario, the founder of the Maison. Alongside there are various collections that lead the path, such as Macri, Opera and the silver jewels of the Blossoms line.
Do you have a collection of Buccellati pieces that goes back to the beginning?
We are recently collecting pieces of the past that now form our Vintage Collection: unbelievable creations that we retrieve from auctions and that represent our 100 years of endless creativity.
What sets Buccellati apart from others in the crowded luxury jewellery market?
We are not set apart. The only thing that makes the difference from other Maisons, could be the one that our creativity still is, and has always been, in the hands of a Buccellati family member: first Mario, then Gianmaria, and today, Andrea, working with his daughter Lucrezia on some projects. Four generations of Buccellati at the helm of creativity: this is unique.
Customization has been a huge on luxury fashion industry. Have you seen an increase in the volume of those asking for personalized pieces?
Customization has always been a prerogative for Buccellati, and still is. There is an increasing number of clients asking for bespoke jewels, and we are here to serve!
In terms of production volumes, how many pieces does Buccellati make per year?
I cannot tell you a precise number, but for sure we are increasing the pieces of our collections and of unique pieces, too. And this is mainly because we have expanded our network in the last few years.
What are your key markets?
Even though Asia is at present one of the most important markets for us, I would not forget the remaining ones where we have stores and a good distribution network.
Given the focus to appeal to younger consumers, how important are the Millennials to your future strategy?
Millenials are very important to us, and they appreciate our style.
Do you feel that there’s an education process that needs to take place for the younger generation around the heritage of the brand?
No education in the strict sense of the word. Buccellati has a wonderful story to recount, so it’s enough for us to tell it and everybody gets involved.
How do you compare Buccellati past and present?
Past and present, but also future, are tightly linked. Of course, there have been changes, also in style, but the DNA of the Maison still survives and certainly will. Times change, we evolve, but we always keep an eye on our traditions.
What’s the importance of silver pieces for the business and what sets them apart?
The silver production is very important for us: for years and years we have focused on flatware and centrepieces, and we still are. We also keep on producing objects for home decoration and for the art de la table. In this very last period, we are also focusing on giftware offering table games, bar accessories, silver bases with scented candles. Our silver creativity is evolving, as well, and maintain untouched the traditions of the past.
